Nothing listed right now
What shows up in framing & extrusions
- Aluminum extrusions in 6063-T5 and T6, mill and finished
- Thermally broken profiles with poured-and-debridged or strut breaks
- Glazing beads, snap covers, and trim profiles
- Subsills, flashings, and closure pieces
- Full stock lengths and usable drops from commercial takeoffs
Before you buy
Surplus is only a bargain if it fits and it's documented. These are the questions worth asking on this category specifically.
- Get the die or part number. Without it, matching a profile to a system is guesswork, and near-misses don't glaze
- Confirm alloy and temper if the piece is doing structural work; 6063-T5 and T6 differ in strength
- Ask about the thermal break type and whether it's continuous and intact along the length
- Match finish and lot for anything visible — anodize and paint both vary run to run
- Measure straightness and check for twist; unsupported storage puts a permanent set in long profiles
- Confirm usable length after cutting off damaged ends, not the nominal length
Common questions
How do I identify an unknown aluminum profile?
Look for a die number stamped or printed on the extrusion, usually on a concealed leg. Failing that, a cross-section trace with accurate dimensions can often be matched by the manufacturer's technical department. Visual similarity is not enough — glazing pockets differ by fractions of an inch.
Is mill-finish extrusion worth buying for finished work?
Only if you plan to finish it. Anodizing and painting after fabrication adds cost and lead time, and post-fabrication anodizing can reveal handling marks that mill finish hid. For visible work, buying already-finished material in a matched lot is usually cheaper overall.