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What shows up in glass doors
- Frameless tempered doors in 1/2" and 3/4", prepped for patch fittings
- Aluminum stile-and-rail doors in narrow, medium, and wide stile
- Sliding and bypass door panels from interior office fit-outs
- Pivot doors with floor closer preps
- All-glass entrances complete with rails and patch hardware
Before you buy
Surplus is only a bargain if it fits and it's documented. These are the questions worth asking on this category specifically.
- Every cutout in a tempered door is permanent — hinge preps, lock prep, patch locations, and handle holes cannot be added or moved later
- Confirm handing and swing before anything else; a left-hand door will not become a right-hand door
- Verify which hardware is included. Closers, patch fittings, locks, and thresholds are frequently sold separately and can exceed the door's cost
- For pivot doors, confirm the floor closer model and that the prep matches it
- Check the tempering bug and any applicable safety glazing labeling
- Inspect edges and corners closely — a chipped edge on tempered glass is a spontaneous-breakage risk, not a cosmetic issue
Common questions
Can hinge or lock preps be added to a tempered glass door?
No. All holes, notches, and cutouts must be made before tempering. Machining a tempered lite releases the surface compression and the door shatters. If the prep doesn't match your hardware, the door isn't usable for that opening.
Why does a chipped edge matter so much on a tempered door?
Tempered glass holds its strength through a balanced stress profile, and an edge chip is a stress concentration that can propagate without warning — sometimes weeks later. Edge damage on a tempered door should be treated as disqualifying rather than discounted.